Back 3768 Highway Light Disassembly/Repair | TYCO US-1 Electric Trucking Slot Cars Discussion Forum Club

3768 Highway Light Disassembly/Repair

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tyco Trucking
  • Start date Start date
Notice: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you. Thank you for your support!

Tyco Trucking

Active member
Apr 23, 2023
210
139
43
Visit site
Quick little tutorial to disassemble and repair a 3768 Highway Light.

A8393BAD-76FD-42ED-8662-B4BF278B691E.jpeg

My 3768 had a battery go south in it at some point, so there is some residue in it. So let’s fix it!

B108FCC8-B662-4ADC-95DF-4DB8CD63F492.jpeg

The best tool I found to get these apart is a Lego Brick Separator. You may have something similar. But you definitely want to use something plastic and non-marring. Remove the battery door before starting.

315CA655-11B1-4094-9ADE-36E1941E61B3.jpeg

Easiest way is to grab the back end and gently pull it apart to get a gap in the sides. Then start to work the tool in to work the pins loose.

F35C9FDF-C55B-494A-B595-158B4229F54B.jpeg

Surprise! The battery compartment is broken. This will prove this light to be extremely difficult to get apart.

57E8D7CB-F070-46E2-A9AB-77EF543BC48E.jpeg

You will want a small screw driver to unlock these tabs. I started at the bend using my fingernail to separate the post and used the tool to hold it. Once the tabs are released with the tool, work it in to get a gap. Then work to the lamp slowly to get it separated. Two tools will be better.

1C73F843-5F02-4FAA-9389-EA1186CC5BDD.jpeg

So, working slow and using two tools, I worked around the seam and finally got it apart. Because of that break in the battery holder, it was hard to get those pins to release and I just had to force it apart. But, generally they will come apart fairly easy once you get a nice gap around the seam. Work slowly!

But, don’t be fooled, these lights are extremely difficult to get apart. There is a good 3/16” of pin in the socket, and it will make some scary noises as they come out.

C152EE9F-6B78-405D-9544-F786BB3A1D99.jpeg

For the switch, push in the tabs shown by the arrows toward the center and it will come off. Most of these lights will be crunchy when you operate them. Removing the switch piece and cleaning it, and adding a very small amount of lube helps immensely.928030F2-4A10-4B93-B241-2FE1A0130026.jpeg

So here you can see how the light works. As the switch is pushed back, the switch center lug will push the contacts together. One wire is soldered to the battery ground lug, and the other wire is soldered to the positive lug. As the switch lug pushes the contact down it is closed and feeds power to the lamp.

Since this light is broken, I’m probably not going to clean it, and put it in the “junk” pile. I’m not too sure if it will even go back together. I bent the posts pretty good YOLO’ing it apart.

When reassembling, ensure the wires are in the post channel and try not to pinch them. Simply press the sides together till there is no gap in the body. And make sure to reinstall the foil reflector.
 
Nice Mike, you see I wasn’t joking that they are hard to get apart. Took me a good 20-30 minutes because that crack was holding the two rear pins.

I had one that wouldn’t work so I took it apart a while back. Figured someone put it together so it has to come apart.

I was curious about how to replace the lamp with the one you sell, in case it blew. The leads would put the solder point in the post, which doesn’t have any room.

I also thought about running the power from the track, so as to not have to run a battery in it. But being a 1.5 VDC supply with no amps, and the track being minimum 2 VDC up to 8 or 9, at 2 amps, IDK if that’s a good idea…
 
  • Haha
Reactions: biddle

Users who are viewing this thread