Yeah you said it "unbroken" They won't stay that way if you run them.
I prefer these first gen chassis. I’ve had IDK how many of them, and have never had an issue with the
gears cracking.
I think the guide blades are more efficient through the turn outs. Think if it like an axe head. With the guide blade it’s easier to slip through that copper guide. In the case of the pins it’s like turning the head around. There is also more surface area to contact the strip in reverse. As well as the steel pins in contact with the copper, causing wear.
I've not been able to get a definitive answer on this. At first I thought they were repairs, but I've talked to original owners that insist they are original owners and they came that way. I inquired about one on
ebay last year and they guy said there was no way to push them in, but I have no idea if that was accurate.
No way! Those original unbroken brown guide pins are HTF.
You got a smoking deal Mike… Although that 56 is fairly common in both US-1 and Tyco’s HP-7 line, it is an original issue, and my goodness the paint is beautiful..
I’ve seen the “snail” 53 quite a few times and wondered about that as well. Why Tyco did that is anyone’s guess. I wondered if the windshield piece has something to do with it.
Looking at my example there is a large piece of “sprue” where the windshield was cut from the “tree”. The light pin was melted to secure it to the roof. I’d assume that was a cost cutting procedure to nix the melt so because if the pin protruding the windshield insert can’t be put in. Viola! Answer found…
Tyco Engineer: “Sir, we have an issue with the 53, the light pin won’t allow the windshield to be installed.. We already cut cost by not heat welding the parts.”
Tyco Executive: “Johnson, I pay you $35,000 a year to fix these things, just DO IT! And cut another $0.25 from the production cost for bothering me!”
And here we see the “snail” in its conception. Not installing the light all the way reduced the press cost of $0.20 per car. When it wouldn’t have cost anything to just shift the cutting jig 1/16” to the left on the windshield insert.