New replacement motors?

[suprb6970]

I have been searching for new replacement motors. I have found none.
Here is what I have learned by searching.
Tyco US1 used a box style box of course, but not all box style motors are same from this era.
US1 used a Barrel Brush Mabuchi or Johnson Motor. Tyco did use this motor in other slot cars. but none of them are the same as US1.
They used this motor in later HP2 curve hugger and early Command Control cars also early Jam car vans. The later Jam Car chassis (TCR) used a Mabuchi motor NOT Johnson no barrels. You can tell the difference in the chassis. The newer chassis has a large hole in the center the chassis, the older does not.
The differences are significant. The HP2 motor the output shaft is too short for US1.
The Command Control motor is also too short. The Jam Car motor is close but also too short. Command Control armature windings are different also Command Control (TCR) used a VAC output power supply and not VDC. Ideal TCR chassis also use Johnson Motors but are once again too short.
Other Tyco products use box style motors to but they are Mabuchi Motors, such as HP7 chassis.
These other Johnson Motors can be useful. You could use the parts to rebuild your old motor if your armature is still good.

 

[mckenzie913]

Have you found anywhere that sells the direct replacement motors?

 

[suprb6970]

Have you found anywhere that sells the direct replacement motors?

No. I have searched and searched.

 

[Tyco Trucking]

No. I have searched and searched.

As obscure as US-1 is, it's no surprise that no one does an aftermarket motor.

The main current manufacturer, AutoWorld, uses those pancake motors like the T-Jets.

I've actually had pretty good luck taking the motor apart, and cleaning the arm with a brass Dremel brush wheel. The motors use a carbon graphite brush, as far as I understand, and it can gum up the arm when oil saturates the brushes. As well as the dust made as the brush wears.

I took a points file (used to file down distributor points in a '60's car) and flattened the brush curve and to get into some clean material. Most of the motors I done ran just off the parking lug on the controller.

 

[mckenzie913]

As obscure as US-1 is, it's no surprise that no one does an aftermarket motor.

The main current manufacturer, AutoWorld, uses those pancake motors like the T-Jets.

I've actually had pretty good luck taking the motor apart, and cleaning the arm with a brass Dremel brush wheel. The motors use a carbon graphite brush, as far as I understand, and it can gum up the arm when oil saturates the brushes. As well as the dust made as the brush wears.

I took a points file (used to file down distributor points in a '60's car) and flattened the brush curve and to get into some clean material. Most of the motors I done ran just off the parking lug on the controller.

I replaced the brushes and spring’s. New pick up shoes. Still dead. I’ll keep messing with it next week.

 

[Tyco Trucking]

I replaced the brushes and spring’s. New pick up shoes. Still dead. I’ll keep messing with it next week.

Check the armature, there are three tiny little single strand wires that go to the commutator. Thats the interface between the brush and the armature. There should be small plastic washers on both ends of the shaft.

I'd also check the drive gears. The white gears are susceptible to cracking. This can cause the motor to "lock up", needing to manipulate the drive wheels to "unlock" it. This can be determined before it gets so bad to lock the motor by a clicking sound heard when the chassis is ran.

 

[biddle]

I've never seen one armature that wouldn't spin even after sitting for 40 years so I'd say this problem is pretty uncommon to be totally dead.