A breakdown of the 3025 mostly for @Mike Raffa
You’ll want to use a #1 Phillips screwdriver
First check your controls that there are no stress marks or damage to these two stop posts.
The pointer will engage these stops and limit the sweep. If they are bent it will allow the switch to go further than it’s supposed to.
Using the #1 screwdriver, remove the three screws indicated at the yellow circles. There are two tabs indicated in red. Lifting the terminal cover slightly and pushing it forward will allow you to remove the cover.
The screws are all the same so there is no need to remember which went where. Unless you’re ADHD or something..
So here is the guts. It’s much much much simpler than any of the separated controls.
Red and black arrows are the pins for the power pack. Check green and yellow arrows that the wires are securely connected. Just a gentle tug.
Okay.. At the red circles, there are the points where power/ground is supplied.
The white/purple arrows show the movement of these contacts while moving to forward on the control.
Blue arrow is the mount for the resistor and is the off position.
As the contact follows the green arrow, less resistance is provided to the contact, applying more voltage to the track rail, shown by the yellow arrows.
Red and black are the other mounts for the resistor, and provide full power to the rails via yellow arrows. It bypasses the entire resistor applying full voltage.
Check this contact at the red circle to ensure it is in full contact with the curved contact, and check the connection at the blue arrow. If the contact at the red circle isn’t fully down, especially when at full power, as the end of the resistor cap will make the entire contact arm raise up. This contact allows power to follow the yellow arrow to the resistor, regulating speed.
Check the contact and spring at the red circle. This spring allows both power to flow to the yellow arrows, as well as pushes against the bottom of the wheel fork on the cover providing tension to keep the aforementioned contacts on the other contacts engaged. As the wheel is turned the contact will come out of the park area and touch the plate which is what the end of the resistor is attached to.
Black circle is the off end of the resistor. As the contact sweeps across the resistor (shown in the green circle) following the black arrow. At wide open throttle, you can again see how the resistor cap in the red circle enables the contact to come off the resistor, but also can allow the contact by the black arrow to possibly come off its respective sweep plate. The power then follows the red arrow to the track rail.
Again, this is a clearer pic to show the two contacts and how they work with the plates to transfer power. If either are not in full contact you will have either voltage drop, or even a dead circuit. Not shown is the fork under the wheel on the cover, but that applies force pushing the arm down which is countered by the spring/contact at the pivot.
You can remove the arm, but as you can see the grey thread like pin, if this is broken or damaged, it may not allow the arm to work right. I did have this happen, and luckily the fork on the wheel pushed it down enough to let it work.
Cleaning all of these plates and contacts can be beneficial. At least where they make contact, but be mindful of what I said about the spring like pin that secures the arm.
Also remember that the resistor is a ceramic rod, that is wound with copper wire. Thin copper wire. Any damage to this wire will impact performance. And as I said, check all the connections and wiring for damage, or looseness.
To put it back together, ensure the arms are parked on their saddles, the wheels are centered, and engage the cover tabs at an angle into their slots on the track base. Tilt it down until it’s seated. Place a screw in its hole, apply the screwdriver, and turn it backwards as if loosening it for a few turns until you feel a click. This lets you know you’ve seated the screw and you won’t cross thread and strip the hole.
You’ll want to use a #1 Phillips screwdriver
First check your controls that there are no stress marks or damage to these two stop posts.
The pointer will engage these stops and limit the sweep. If they are bent it will allow the switch to go further than it’s supposed to.
Using the #1 screwdriver, remove the three screws indicated at the yellow circles. There are two tabs indicated in red. Lifting the terminal cover slightly and pushing it forward will allow you to remove the cover.
The screws are all the same so there is no need to remember which went where. Unless you’re ADHD or something..
So here is the guts. It’s much much much simpler than any of the separated controls.
Red and black arrows are the pins for the power pack. Check green and yellow arrows that the wires are securely connected. Just a gentle tug.
Okay.. At the red circles, there are the points where power/ground is supplied.
The white/purple arrows show the movement of these contacts while moving to forward on the control.
Blue arrow is the mount for the resistor and is the off position.
As the contact follows the green arrow, less resistance is provided to the contact, applying more voltage to the track rail, shown by the yellow arrows.
Red and black are the other mounts for the resistor, and provide full power to the rails via yellow arrows. It bypasses the entire resistor applying full voltage.
Check this contact at the red circle to ensure it is in full contact with the curved contact, and check the connection at the blue arrow. If the contact at the red circle isn’t fully down, especially when at full power, as the end of the resistor cap will make the entire contact arm raise up. This contact allows power to follow the yellow arrow to the resistor, regulating speed.
Check the contact and spring at the red circle. This spring allows both power to flow to the yellow arrows, as well as pushes against the bottom of the wheel fork on the cover providing tension to keep the aforementioned contacts on the other contacts engaged. As the wheel is turned the contact will come out of the park area and touch the plate which is what the end of the resistor is attached to.
Black circle is the off end of the resistor. As the contact sweeps across the resistor (shown in the green circle) following the black arrow. At wide open throttle, you can again see how the resistor cap in the red circle enables the contact to come off the resistor, but also can allow the contact by the black arrow to possibly come off its respective sweep plate. The power then follows the red arrow to the track rail.
Again, this is a clearer pic to show the two contacts and how they work with the plates to transfer power. If either are not in full contact you will have either voltage drop, or even a dead circuit. Not shown is the fork under the wheel on the cover, but that applies force pushing the arm down which is countered by the spring/contact at the pivot.
You can remove the arm, but as you can see the grey thread like pin, if this is broken or damaged, it may not allow the arm to work right. I did have this happen, and luckily the fork on the wheel pushed it down enough to let it work.
Cleaning all of these plates and contacts can be beneficial. At least where they make contact, but be mindful of what I said about the spring like pin that secures the arm.
Also remember that the resistor is a ceramic rod, that is wound with copper wire. Thin copper wire. Any damage to this wire will impact performance. And as I said, check all the connections and wiring for damage, or looseness.
To put it back together, ensure the arms are parked on their saddles, the wheels are centered, and engage the cover tabs at an angle into their slots on the track base. Tilt it down until it’s seated. Place a screw in its hole, apply the screwdriver, and turn it backwards as if loosening it for a few turns until you feel a click. This lets you know you’ve seated the screw and you won’t cross thread and strip the hole.
